（双语文本）宽裂缝攀岩者

Really I think I was born to be an off-width climber.
That was what my body was designed for. And clearly it was what my personality was designed for,
because it requires an ability to believe in yourself, beyond your physical capacity.
My name is Pamela Shanti Peck, and I’m a professional rock climber.
Utah is my favorite place to climb because we have these massive sandstone cliffs,
and often I’m the very first person to climb those particular cracks, so it’s like being some sort of an explorer.
I climb in a traditional-style, which means that I have specific gear that’s designed for placing in a crack,
and as I climb, that gear catches me if I fall.
Choosing when to place the gear, whether you’re going to place the gear, what are the chances you’re going to fall,
it just adds the component of reading the space as I climb and that makes it a little more exciting for me.
Being a professional rock climber as a woman is relatively new.
When I started in this particular style, it was a 2010.
I was the first woman to devote myself to off width-climbing,
and there was a lot of resistance to that and I was criticized for everything, it didn’t matter what.
I was criticized for wearing my hair down. I was criticized for what I wore when I climbed.
Ultimately, all that criticism really inspired me to continue climbing.
All right, good to go.
It is a dangerous sport, so there’s a lot that goes into it.
I’ve climbed despite having broken ribs and various other injuries.
In a way, maybe that’s a form of meditation.
I’m able to put the pain in the background, and I will make myself climb and allow myself to feel that pain after I finished the climb.
And then this is an unpleasant moment where I am getting some blood work done after falling and needing to have surgery on my kidney.
I’ve had two really bad injuries.
The one was a fall where I had kidney surgery, and then the other was that one where I had the back injury.

It’s always historically been, maybe, the least popular style of climbing there’s ever been,

because of the physical brutality of this style.

But I very quickly realized that it was a technically brilliant style and an artful style,

and that I could change it, that I could find new routes, and that I could establish new techniques,

and my focus, as I said many times, is to bring grace to the grovel.

I think my greatest passion or obsession as a climber aside from just you know climbing off-width, is looking for routes that are improbable.

I’ll drive down these canyons and I’ll look for routes that no one else has seen before,

and it takes a certain eye, a lot of imagination, a lot of creativity.

It’s like being an artist, having the idea of a book, the idea for a painting,

and I’m just seeking out those ideas and then I’ll create them.

My emphasis is on finding lines that tell a really good story.

One of the joys of establishing a route is then you get to name the route.

One of them is named the Kill Artist, so that probably gives you a little bit of an idea of what that experience is like.

I think as far as first ascents now,I’ve lost track but oh well over a 100 at this point.

My father, Robert Pack, is a poet and he wrote this poem for me to express his apprehensions about my climbing

but also to express his understanding for what I do.

Down on firm planet earth, my wife and I share apprehensions,

that are easy to explain, as dread of helplessness,

and yet without the ecstasies in disciplined suspension of her breath, are almost weightless floating there,

perhaps the vast, unfathomable, uncertainty of parenthood possesses in its dark dismal depths of mad exhilaration of its own.

真的，我认为我天生就是宽裂缝攀岩者。
这就是我的身体和性格是如此的目的。
因为这需要一种相信自己的能力，超越你的身体能力。
我叫帕梅拉·香蒂·派克，我是一名专业攀岩者。
犹他州是我最喜欢攀登的地方，因为那里有巨大的砂岩悬崖，
通常我是第一个爬上这些特殊裂缝的人，所以这就像探险家。
我以传统的方式攀爬，这意味着我有特殊的齿轮，专门用来放置在裂缝里，
当我爬的时候，如果我摔倒了，这个装备就会抓住我。
需要选择何时放置起落架，是否要放置起落架，判断坠落的几率有多大，
它只是增加了我攀登时阅读空间的成分，这让我更兴奋了。
作为一名女性，成为一名职业攀岩者是相对不常见的事情。
我从2010年开始用这种特别的风格。
我是第一个致力于户外攀岩的女性，
当时有很多反对的声音，我做什么都会被批评。
有人批评我把头发披散了。有人批评我攀登时穿的衣服。
最终，所有的批评都激励我继续攀登。
好的，可以开始了。
这是一项危险的运动，所以会涉及很多内容。
尽管我折断了肋骨，还受了各种各样的伤，但我还是爬了上去。
在某种程度上，这可能是一种冥想。
我可以把痛苦放在背景中，我会让自己爬起来，让自己在爬完之后感受那种痛苦。
然后这是一个不舒适的时刻，我需要在跌倒后做一些血液工作，并进行肾脏手术。
我受了两次重伤。
一个是我做了肾脏手术的时候摔倒了，另一个是我背部受伤了。
这可能是历史上最不受欢迎的攀登方式，
因为这种风格对身体很残忍。
但我很快意识到这是一种技术上很出色的风格，一种巧妙的风格，
我可以改变它，我可以找到新的路线，我可以建立新的技术，
正如我多次说过的，我的重点是给这种残忍的攀岩方法带来魅力。
作为一个攀岩者，我最大的热情和痴迷就是寻找那些不太可能的路线。
我要开车穿过这些峡谷去寻找别人没见过的路线
这需要一双眼睛，大量的想象力，大量的创造力。
这就像一个艺术家，有一本书的想法，一幅画的想法，
我只是在寻找这些想法，然后创造它们。
我的重点是找到那些讲述好故事的台词。
建立路线的乐趣之一就是你可以为路线命名。
其中一个被命名为“杀戮艺术家”，所以这可能会让你对那种体验有一些概念
我想在第一次攀登的时候，我已经迷失了方向，但是在这一点上我已经超过了100分。
我的父亲罗伯特·帕克是一位诗人，他为我写这首诗是为了表达他对我登山的忧虑
也表达了他对我所做的事情的理解。
在坚定的土地上，我和妻子有共同的忧虑，
这很容易解释，那就是对无助的恐惧，
然而，没有那种按捺住呼吸的狂喜，像失重一样漂浮在那里的，
或许是为人父母所担忧的巨大的、深不可测的不确定性，在不确定性黑暗阴暗的深处，有其本身疯狂的喜悦。