拉面外交

Years ago in September when I first started working in the city of Hangzhou, I had an unexpected encounter at one of my favorite pulled noodle carts.

几年前我初到杭州工作，正值九月，我与最爱的拉面推车不期而遇。

One night several Chinese soldiers with short buzz cuts and light-green buttoned shirts displaying their military ranks sat down at one of the plastic tables beside me, as I was enjoying my usual bowl of vegetarian pulled noodles. 

一天夜里，我去吃面。就在我品尝着美味的蔬菜面时，隔壁桌来了几名中国军人。他们留着寸头，衬衫上浅绿色的纽扣象征着他们的军衔。

They asked where I was from. After I told them, the tallest and most muscular man of the bunch said: "I don'like America. Americans don't respect China." 

他们问我是哪国人，我回答完，队里最高最壮的军人说：“美国不尊重中国，我不喜欢美国。”

His words unnerved me. I knew Americans weren't universally beloved around the world, but it was the first time anyone had ever admitted it to my face in such blunt terms. On top of it, the admission came from a man trained to fight and defend his nation against other countries, such as my own.

他的话让我坐立不安。我虽然知道世界上很多国家都不待见美国，但被人如此直白地当面告之还是头一回。更重要的是，这话出自一个敢为自己的祖国抛头颅洒热血的士兵。美国的军人也是如此。

I didn't doubt this man's resolve to safeguard China — there was a razor-sharp look in his dark and steady eyes. Yet he also smiled at me at the same time. This expression of friendliness, though at odds with his response, moved me to continue the conversation, even if my fledgling Mandarin Chinese was still on shaky ground.

这个男人愿为自己的国家献身的决心，我丝毫不会怀疑。他的双眸深邃坚定，眼神如剃刀般锐利，但他在说话时，却仍然对我报以微笑，以示友善，尽管这与他的话有点矛盾，但他的笑容还是促使我操着一口不流利的普通话继续聊天。

So I attempted to suggest an alternative explanation. "Americans just don't understand China. If they really knew China, they would like China." It was a very simplified version of my own journey from an outsider wary of China to one who had gradually come to embrace and appreciate it. "We just need more international communication."

我试着解释道：“美国人只是不了解中国而已，等他们真正了解中国了，就会爱上这个国家。”这不就是在说我自己吗，从对中国了解甚少，到渐渐接受、热爱中国。我又说：“中美人民只是需要更多的国际交流。”

The man's expression softened and he even laughed in agreement. "International communication! Like now, right?"

听到我这样说，对方神态放松了下来，笑着表示同意：“就像我们现在这样交流，对吗？”

Before I knew it, he poured me some of their West Lake beer and we clanged our plastic cups together in a merry toast to guoji jiaoliu, international communication. Never in my life had the words "international communication" sounded so welcoming and warm. 

回过神时，对方已经给我倒上了地方特色西湖酒，我们用塑料杯子为“国际交流”碰杯。在那之前，我从没意识到“international communication”这两个单词如此惬意温暖。

When it started raining, the soldiers insisted on wedging my lilac Emmelle bicycle into the trunk of their sleek black sedan, and giving me a ride back to my residence — where they wouldn't let me out of the car until they pulled up to the front doors. The soldiers even carried my bicycle up the stairs of the building for me, placing it almost exactly in the same spot where I parked it every evening. 

后来下雨了，军人们坚持要送我回家。他们把我的淡紫色阿米尼自行车放进后备箱，然后开着那辆黑色亮漆轿车，一直载我到大楼前门才放我下车，最后还帮我把自行车抬进了楼梯口，我每晚都将自行车放在那里。

A feeling of joy washed over me as I marveled in the events of the night, which transformed my impression of soldiers in China. I had often imagined them as hostile, particularly to foreigners like me. Yet here were these men who supposedly disliked America, and they nevertheless showed me, an American, such hospitality. 

每每想起那次经历，我在感叹之余还会有喜悦涌上心头。这让我从此改变了对中国军人的看法：以前我总把他们想得很不友善，对待像我这样的外国人会很刻薄。但是你看，他们虽然说反感美国，但跟我这个美国人相处时，却展现出好客之情。

In retrospect, I realize it was a reminder of how our preconceived notions about other countries and cultures can turn out to be wrong when tested in real-life situations. Over the years I've lived in China, so many of my initial fears about this place would crumble after communicating with people on the ground. A willingness to listen and understand one another can be a wondrous thing.

仔细想来，我们对其他国家和文化保持的那种先入为主的观念实际上是错误的，这放在现实生活中根本说不通。我在中国生活了这么多年，最初那些担心和恐惧早在跟中国人们交流后随风消散了。彼此倾听和彼此理解能破除一切矛盾，这真的很不可思议。

In a world where so many of us are "so certain" of how the other side really lives and thinks, I feel we all could use a little more international communication and understanding. All it takes is an inclination to talk and smile — and sometimes, you just have to "soldier on" for a breakthrough.

世界上有很多人像美国人一样，自以为很了解其他国家和民族的生活习惯和思考方式。我认为不同国家间的人应该多一份交流，多一份理解。这很简单，聊天和微笑就可以了。有些时候，只要像士兵那样坚持一小下，就能在交流中取得大突破。