Michel Roux, transformer with his brother of the British restaurant scene, died on March 11th, aged 78 The sight was so awful that Michel Roux, then only in his 20s and new to London, quickly turned his face away.
Through the window of the Lyons CornerHouse near Marble Arch he could see people eating British peas. The peas were fluorescent, big as quails' eggs.
And there was worse: on each side-plate a piece of sliced bread, limp as a handkerchief and bleached frighteningly white. He realised then that he had come to a land that was still in the culinary Dark Ages.
And it was all Albert's fault. His older brother had persuaded him to come. He had been working as a chef in London for eight years, and now had plans.
Those eventually led to the founding of two restaurants, Le Gavroche in Chelsea and the Waterside Inn at Bray in Berkshire, which transformed fine dining and the whole food scene in Britain.
Each venue earned three Michelin stars, something the country had never experienced before. But as Michel stood aghast in the street that day, he was torn between revolutionary fervour and despair.
Despite the fact that Albert was dark, dumpy and short, and he was tall, fair and much handsomer, he had always looked up to him, so to speak. If Albert had been a fireman, he would have been a fireman too.
As it was, Albert went young to be apprenticed to a pastry chef, so at 14 he did the same.
There at last he surpassed his brother, becoming so good at pastries and desserts that for many years he held the title of Best Pastrycook in France.
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