【晚读】EP111 阿哥与格格们的最爱，没吃饭的慎点

In Northern China, people tend to make food by flour as the staple food, such as steamed rolls, buns, pancakes, noodles and so on. By contrast, people are more likely to eat rice in Southern China. Noodles imply “long life”, therefore, there is a custom in Northern China that as long as someone observes his/her birthday, the family members will cook a bowl of noodles for the longevity god, wishing him/her everlasting health. There is another popular saying that “eat dumplings arriving and noodles when departing”, which means that we eat dumplings to celebrate the reunion while we eat noodles before we see them off. People tend to believe that long noodles are just like lines reminding those who prepare to leave to come back earlier. It’s an aspiration to meet again as early as possible.

在北方人的餐桌上，主食一般都以面食为主，包括花卷、馒头、烙饼、面条等等。南方则多以米饭为主食。面条寓意“长寿”，所以在北方有一个习俗，只要家里有人过生日，大家就要送他一碗长寿面，希望他平安健康到永远。还有一种流行的说法，“下车饺子上车面”：与亲朋好友团聚时吃顿饺子庆祝，送别亲朋好友离开时吃碗面，意味着用长长的面条拴住他们，表达了一种“早日再团员”的期待。

In daily life, Beijingers seem to be more fond of noodles. When people talk of Traditional Beijing Noodles (referred to “the Noodles” below), they say they will never get tired of eating it. In the past, only the dilapidated nobility can eat the Noodles. But nowadays, despite of social status, people can go to the restaurant to order it at any time they want, not only for the atmosphere but more for good taste. You can order some local side dishes such as fried sausage and cool cabbage with wasabi in pier shape, then two seasonal dishes, and finally the Noodles. How indescribably comfortable!

日常生活中，北京人貌似更喜欢吃面。老北京的炸酱面有百吃不厌的美誉。虽说在以前，炸酱面是落魄贵族的吃食，但在现代，无论男女老少、官员百姓都爱吃一口。不仅是奔着气氛，主要还是因为吃得舒服，点上几种有滋味的京味小菜，像炸灌肠、芥末墩儿…再弄两个时令炒菜，最后来一碗炸酱面，可别提多美了！

Until now, you can still see in the warren in small lanes called hutong in Beijing inner city that neighbors in communities nearby gather together during meal time holding the Noodles bowl with one cucumber in it. Squatting down in the courtyard or door opening, they are chatting and playing chess while having a bite.

直到现在，在北京胡同里的大杂院，仍可以见到这样的场景;街坊四邻在吃饭店儿聚齐在一堆儿，端着碗炸酱面，碗里搁一根脆黄瓜，在当院或门洞里一蹲，吃两口炸酱面，咬一口脆黄瓜，既不耽误聊天，又不耽误下棋。

This is common but warm, which tells people’s eating habits and also records the neighborhood life. In such a metropolitan as Beijing, what matters is not a bowl of hot noodles, but also the mutual companionship and the warm heart caring others behind.

这是一幅平凡却凸显温暖的画面，传达了人们的饮食习惯，记录这左邻右舍的街坊生活。在北京这样一座巨大的都市里，重要的不止是热腾腾的炸酱面，更可贵的是在相互陪伴和关爱中，牵绊他人的那颗温暖的心。

工纵号：斯密英语杂志