第1991期:Old Ways of Making Wine Gain New Fans

Wine made by ancient methods is gaining new fans. 

用古老方法酿造的葡萄酒正在赢得新的粉丝。 

Wine is an alcoholic drink made from fruit like grapes. 

葡萄酒是一种由葡萄等水果制成的酒精饮料。 

Natural wine uses methods that reduce processing and harmful effects on the Earth. Research company IWSR Drinks Market Analysis found that people in the U.S. are seeking natural wine in increasing numbers. At the same time, the number of wine buyers has been dropping since 2015. 

天然葡萄酒采用的方法可减少加工过程和对地球的有害影响。 研究公司 IWSR Drinks Market Analysis 发现越来越多的美国人寻求天然葡萄酒。 与此同时，葡萄酒买家数量自2015年以来一直在下降。 

Natural and other Earth-friendly wines made up less than one percent of sales in 2021. But demand for those wines was rising faster than other kinds on the whole, reported Drizly, an online site for ordering and shipping wine and other alcohol. 

2021 年，天然葡萄酒和其他环保葡萄酒仅占销售额的不到 1%。但据订购和运输葡萄酒及其他酒类的在线网站 Drizly 报道，这些葡萄酒的需求总体上比其他种类的葡萄酒增长得更快。 

Most natural wines are made with organic grapes collected by hand. Organic growers do not use poisonous chemicals to stop or control insects or unwanted plant growth. 

大多数天然葡萄酒都是用手工采集的有机葡萄酿制的。 有机种植者不使用有毒化学品来阻止或控制昆虫或不需要的植物生长。 

To make wine, the grapes need to be crushed. Some wine producers crush grapes by foot like people of ancient times. Afterwards, the crushed grapes ferment naturally. Manufacturers do not add water, yeast or other substances. 

为了酿造葡萄酒，需要将葡萄压碎。 有些葡萄酒生产商像古代人一样用脚踩碎葡萄。 之后，压碎的葡萄自然发酵。 制造商不添加水、酵母或其他物质。 

There are exceptions. Some natural winemakers add sulfites, a chemical produced naturally in grapes. Extra sulfites can help preserve, or keep, the wine. And some winemakers clear the final liquid of any small pieces that could make it look cloudy.

但也有例外。 一些天然酿酒师添加亚硫酸盐，这是一种葡萄中天然产生的化学物质。 额外的亚硫酸盐可以帮助保存或保存葡萄酒。 一些酿酒师清除了最终液体中任何可能使其看起来浑浊的小碎片。 

The result is wines that are earthy and less predictable than many of the wines created by bigger producers. 

结果是葡萄酒变得朴实，并且比大生产商生产的许多葡萄酒更难以预测。

“The first time you taste it, you can tell it’s alive,” said John Keller. He is the owner and winemaker at Neu Cellars in Northern Michigan. 

“当你第一次尝到它的时候，你就能看出它是活的，”约翰·凯勒说。 他是密歇根州北部 Neu Cellars 的老板和酿酒师。 

But selling natural wine processes can be difficult. Natural wine has no set definition in the U.S. It is not easy to find, since most natural wines do not identify as such on their labels. 

但销售天然葡萄酒工艺可能很困难。 天然葡萄酒在美国没有固定的定义。要找到天然葡萄酒并不容易，因为大多数天然葡萄酒的标签上都没有这样的标识。 

“Natural just sounds good, but conventional wine is pretty natural too,” said Anita Oberholster. She is a professor in the Department of Viticulture and Enology at the University of California, Davis. “If the idea of natural wine is going to grow, we should do research on it and define it.” 

“天然听起来不错，但传统葡萄酒也很天然，”安妮塔·奥伯霍尔斯特 (Anita Oberholster) 说。 她是加州大学戴维斯分校葡萄栽培和酿酒学系的教授。 “如果天然葡萄酒的理念要发展，我们应该对其进行研究并对其进行定义。”

Keller of Neu Cellars has a degree in biochemistry. He started out working for a big winemaker in California. But he left because he was not happy about all the chemical mixes it used. These include gelatin, oak dust, and eggs. 

Neu Cellars 的凯勒拥有生物化学学位。 他开始为加利福尼亚州的一家大型酿酒师工作。 但他离开了，因为他对公司使用的所有化学混合物不满意。 其中包括明胶、橡木粉和鸡蛋。 

However, some say the line between natural and conventional wines is very narrow. 

然而，有人说天然葡萄酒和传统葡萄酒之间的界限非常狭窄。 

Many products added to wine, like yeast, are natural products, Oberholster said. And many conventional wines are made without adding anything. 

奥伯霍尔斯特说，许多添加到葡萄酒中的产品，如酵母，都是天然产品。 许多传统葡萄酒是在不添加任何东西的情况下酿造的。 

Some in the industry would like to establish rules for producing natural wine. France’s wine industry took such action in 2020, enacting requirements that winemakers must meet to identify their wines as natural. 

一些业内人士希望制定天然葡萄酒生产规则。 法国葡萄酒行业在 2020 年采取了这样的行动，制定了酿酒师必须满足的要求，才能认定他们的葡萄酒是天然的。 

Some manufacturers argue that rules can make wine making more costly. Keller uses organic grapes but he says he cannot support the cost of repeated inspections for approval as an organic wine. 

一些制造商认为，规则可能会提高葡萄酒酿造成本。 凯勒使用有机葡萄，但他表示他无法承担为批准有机葡萄酒而进行重复检查的费用。 

Anthony Zhang is the co-founder and CEO of Vinovest, a wine investment company. He sees another problem. 

张东是葡萄酒投资公司Vinovest的联合创始人兼首席执行官。 他看到了另一个问题。 

Vinovest says some wine companies are profiting from the lack of rules. They use labeling content like imagery that suggests their wine making is natural when they are not, he argues. 

Vinovest 表示，一些葡萄酒公司正在从缺乏规则中获利。 他认为，他们使用图像等标签内容来暗示他们的葡萄酒酿造是自然的，而实际上并非如此。 

That can mislead buyers who often will pay higher prices for wines made by smaller producers that use natural methods. 

这可能会误导买家，他们往往愿意为采用自然方法的小生产商生产的葡萄酒支付更高的价格。 

However, buyers may have more information on wine bottles soon. Starting in December, wines sold in the European Union will have to identify on their labeling all the substances each product contains. 

不过，买家可能很快就会获得更多有关酒瓶的信息。 从十二月开始，在欧盟销售的葡萄酒必须在标签上标明每种产品所含的所有物质。 

Oberholster expects the U.S. to pass similar measures as well in the next few years. 

奥伯霍尔斯特预计美国也将在未来几年通过类似的措施。