第1806期:Wealthy People Still Spend Money But Keep Low Profile

With an ongoing war in Europe, high energy prices and food shortages, some wealthy people find themselves wanting to spend their money in ways that do not draw attention. Even in the current economic climate, many people who have a lot of money are still buying costly items such as fine wool clothing and leather bags. However, they are purchasing items without the large company logos and lettering that were once so popular. Some observers are calling it “stealth wealth.” Stealth is another word for secret or quiet.

随着欧洲持续不断的战争、高昂的能源价格和食品短缺，一些富人发现自己想以不引人注意的方式花钱。即使在当前的经济形势下，许多有钱人仍在购买昂贵的物品，例如细毛衣和皮包。但是，他们购买的商品没有曾经如此流行的大公司徽标和字母。一些观察家称其为“隐形财富”。 Stealth 是秘密或安静的另一种说法。

Expert observers who follow the buying trends of wealthy people say they have recently noticed the change. They point to the clothing worn by actor and businesswoman Gwyneth Paltrow during her recent televised legal case. Paltrow wore clothing from costly makers such as Prada and Celine. However, nothing she wore was flashy. Things that are flashy are especially bright or noticeable.

关注富人购买趋势的专家观察员说，他们最近注意到了这种变化。他们指的是演员兼女商人格温妮丝·帕特洛 (Gwyneth Paltrow) 在最近的电视诉讼中穿的衣服。帕特洛 (Paltrow) 穿的衣服出自 Prada 和 Celine 等昂贵品牌。然而，她穿的任何一件都不华而不实。华而不实的事物特别明亮或引人注目。

Observers also see the clothes worn by the actors on the popular HBO television show Succession. The show follows the wealthy family of a television company owner. The actors wear clothes and carry items that look good but do not clearly show the names of the companies that make them. On the television show, which is in its final season, viewers have watched for clues about the characters’ clothing since 2018. Michelle Matland is the costume designer for the show. She said the wealthy Roy family on the show does not wear clothing with “bling quality.” Matland used the real-life Kardashian family as an example of people who wear bling -- clothing and jewelry that are meant to be noticed.

观察者还可以看到 HBO 热门电视节目《继承》中演员所穿的衣服。该节目讲述了一家电视公司老板的富裕家庭。演员们穿的衣服和带的东西看起来不错，但并没有清楚地标明制造它们的公司的名字。在这部已进入最后一季的电视节目中，自 2018 年以来，观众一直在寻找有关角色服装的线索。米歇尔·马特兰 (Michelle Matland) 是该节目的服装设计师。她说节目中富有的罗伊家族不穿“闪闪发光”的衣服。 Matland 以现实生活中的卡戴珊家族为例，说明人们穿着闪闪发光的衣服和珠宝，这些都是为了引人注目。

The Roy family wears dark clothing and baseball hats without logos or names. At one point in the story, an outsider gives Logan Roy, the head of the Roy family, a costly but flashy Patek Philippe watch. Logan does not say “thank you” and later gives it away. Watches of that kind can cost $300,000. But the Roy family does not wear items that “look” costly. Jodi Kahn is vice president of luxury fashion at Neiman Marcus, an American store that is known for selling costly items. She said she and others in her line of work have found that brands such as Loewe, Saint Laurent and Miu Miu have “leaned into the more classic sensibility.” Martin Pedraza is the head of The Luxury Institute, a consulting business. He said the idea of “stealth wealth” comes up every time people get worried about the economy. Those who have a lot of money want to dress like average people but they can still afford costly items. So companies that make high-priced clothing sell items that do not look extreme.

罗伊一家穿着深色衣服，头戴没有标志或名字的棒球帽。在故事的某个时刻，一位局外人送给罗伊家族的首领洛根罗伊一块昂贵但华而不实的百达翡丽手表。洛根没有说“谢谢”，后来就把它送人了。那种手表可能要花费 300,000 美元。但罗伊一家不穿“看起来”昂贵的物品。 Jodi Kahn 是 Neiman Marcus 的奢侈时尚副总裁，Neiman Marcus 是一家以销售昂贵商品而闻名的美国商店。她说，她和她所在行业的其他人发现，Loewe、Saint Laurent 和 Miu Miu 等品牌“倾向于更经典的情感”。 Martin Pedraza 是咨询公司 The Luxury Institute 的负责人。他说，每当人们对经济感到担忧时，“隐形财富”的想法就会出现。那些有钱的人想穿得和普通人一样，但他们仍然买得起昂贵的东西。因此，生产高价服装的公司出售的商品看起来并不极端。

As a result, the wealthy person does not clearly look wealthy. Pedraza said that happened in the 1990s as well as during the economic recession that started in 2008. Even with the current trend of people buying items that are not flashy, Pedraza said some brands will never change. They will always want their name in big letters and use bright colors.“There will always be people who want the logos” Pedraza said. “Chanel could (never) give up its logo.”

结果，富人看起来并不富有。 Pedraza 说，这发生在 1990 年代以及 2008 年开始的经济衰退期间。即使当前人们购买不华丽的商品的趋势，Pedraza 说一些品牌永远不会改变。他们总是希望自己的名字用大写字母并使用鲜艳的颜色。“总会有人想要徽标，”Pedraza 说。 “香奈儿不可能（永远）放弃它的标志。”