裴淳华 | 迪奥2022年春夏时装高级定制

You know, I come to Paris without my children, without my family, and there’s a great temptation to just...sit by the Seine and read the newspaper and drink coffee. That’s what I’d really like to be doing.

我没带孩子和家人，独自一人来到巴黎，我很想……坐在塞纳河边看报纸，喝咖啡。这就是我真正想做的事情。

It’s easy to lose track of time here. So, I should probably think about getting ready. To embody a new character, It’s important to find little things that help you to leave yourself behind.

在这里很容易忘记时间。所以，我也许应该考虑开始准备了。要体现一个新的角色，重要的是要找到一些小东西让你忘记你是谁。

Costume is so important. And for me it’s all about movement. The two things are inextricably linked. For instance, with the character I’m playing now I know how I want to move, therefore I know what I need the clothes to do. I need to be able to make shapes, and I think it’s important to know what shapes your clothes can make.

服装很重要。对我来说，服装有关一切举止活动，这两点密不可分的。比如我现在扮演的角色，我想知道她要如何移动，就得知道如何用服装来辅助。我要想摆出造型，就得知道你的服装的造型，这点很重要。

It’s quite exciting what I’ve chosen to wear, because I think for Haute Couture it’s important to mark the occasion, to enter into the spirit of that little bit of extra: the magic.

挑选穿搭衣服非常令人兴奋，因为我觉得对于高级时装来说，重要的是要纪念这一时刻，把自己想象成为魔法的一个组成部分。

I found this fantastic padded dress, a bit like a winter coat made of padded fabric, but cut like a complete classic Dior new look 1947 dress. And the combination is that lovely tightrope of classic and modernity, which I love.

这件软垫连衣裙非常漂亮，我觉得有点像一件用软垫织物制成的冬衣，但剪裁的完全像一件迪奥1947年经典时装。这是经典与现代的完美结合，我很喜欢。

I’m just deciding whether or not I might wear a little veil with it. There’s something obviously mysterious and playful about a veil. Like a bride in black. The mystery. It’s very important to prep your face but also your lips. It’s like a drink for your lips. I’m ready for make-up.

我在想我要不要戴一个小面纱。面纱绝对是一种神秘有趣的东西，就像一个穿黑色衣服的新娘：神秘感。让你的脸和嘴唇随时待命很重要，就像一款合口味的饮料。我要准备化妆了。

I use my hands like a palette, always. I prefer small brushes. I think the face is a delicate thing. And here is a little area in the waterline of the eye which is very delicate, and I think it’s important to lift the eye because you want the line to go up, not the eye be pulled down.

我总是把自己的手当（化妆）调色板用。我更喜欢小刷子。我觉得脸是个很精致的地方。这里是眼睛水线上的一个小区域，非常精致，我觉得让眼角往上提很重要，你希望这条线向上走，而不是眼睛被耷拉下来。

So I always take out these little corners, and then push it in with the heat of my finger. I think make-up is never a mask, it’s a veil. I think grey is always very chic. I always have a very different scent when I’m playing a character. I don’t want to be all dressed in a costume and then have my own familiar scent.

所以我总是把这眼角这个地方空出来，然后用手指的热量把眼影推进去。我觉得化妆从不是戴面具，而是面纱。我一直觉得灰色很潮。我每扮演一个角色，都会带着一种不同的香味。我不想一直穿着戏装，那样身上就会一直有我熟悉的味道。

I’m just deciding whether to wear one earring or whether to wear two. I think one is cool, but I think that I like the little bit of movement that this one gives.

我在想是戴一只耳环还是戴两只。我觉得戴一只很酷，但我觉得戴这一只会动感一点。

I think it was really witty of Maria Grazia to hold the show in front of these embroideries, because you have the composure of the models, their structure, and then behind them you have this raw energy of these embroideries.

玛丽亚·格拉齐亚（迪奥创意总监）很聪明，她用刺绣工艺时装来撑起走秀前场。因为你能看到模特的姿态，时装的结构，透过这些你能看到这些刺绣品的原始能量。

And I think you see something like this and... Okay are we looking at animals or are we looking at people? What’s amazing is when you see what looks like one thread on a bare back and you know it’s only possible because the structure on the front supports it. It's like building a bridge.

我们会看到一些这样的东西，那......我们看到的是动物还是人？令人惊奇的是，当你看到（模特）光秃秃的背上只有一根线，是因为时装前面的结构在支撑它。这就像在建造一座桥。

I love the fact that Maria Grazia can play with silvers and things that catch the light and then she can use her blacks and dark colors, they’re really saturated and they absorb light.

玛丽亚·格拉齐亚对银色和捕捉光线这块很在行，她会使用黑色和深色，让它们看起来很饱满，还可以吸收光线，我非常喜欢。

I almost feel a female energy in his work and a masculine energy in her work. To me this seems to be an embodiment of femininity. Thank you, Maria Grazia. Thank you.

我能感受到到她的作品中兼有有一种女性和男性的能量。对我来说，这似乎是女性气质的体现。谢谢你，玛丽亚·格拉齐亚。谢谢。

Note:

Lose track

To no longer know what is happening, or not to remember something 忘记；跟不上最新的情况

I've lost track of the number of times he's asked me to lend him money.

我记不起他有多少次问我借钱了。

Enter/get into the spirit

To show enthusiasm and enjoyment 全身心投入；积极热情地参与

They went to the tennis club a few times but never really got into the spirit of it.

他们去了几次网球俱乐部，但从未真正投身其中。